Letters: It’s easy to replace turn signal switch
BY IRA SIEGEL For Sun-Times Media September 13, 2011 10:29AM
Related Stories
Updated: September 27, 2011 3:59PM
Q: How difficult is it to replace the turn signal switch in my 2000 Dodge Neon? Someone once helped me change the turn signal switch in my old 1985 Chevrolet Monte Carlo and we had to first remove the steering wheel and a spring-loaded lock plate. Do you know if the steering wheel needs to come off the Neon in order to replace the turn signal switch? – F.D., Oak Forest
A: No, the Neon’s steering wheel does not need to be removed. Also, it’s not that big of a job to replace the turn signal switch in your Neon. The repair time for this task is listed at 42 minutes. But since your Neon has an air bag, you’ll need to disarm it first. To do this, simply disconnect the battery negative cable, isolate it and wait at least two minutes before proceeding. Then you’ll need to remove the upper and lower steering column shrouds. Then you’ll have access to the screws retaining the switch.
Q: I recently inherited a 2006 Mazda Tribute from my mother. It’s in good shape and I really like the car except for its unusual problem. When filling it with fuel, the filler nozzle keeps clicking off and won’t stay in the automatic fill position. I have to barely squeeze the trigger so the fuel flows at a very slow rate in order to fill the tank. This takes longer than I’d like and I think something is wrong. My mechanic said that some cars are prone to this problem and I’ll have to live with it. What do you think? – G.T., Norridge
A: I don’t think this is normal. Go to your local Mazda dealer and ask for a copy of technical service bulletin No. 01-026/05. This bulletin says that a revised fuel tank filler pipe should be installed to correct this problem.
Q: The “volts” light in my 1998 Chrysler Concorde came on so I replaced the alternator with one from the junkyard. The light is still on and someone said I might need a new computer. What do you think? – P.A., Chicago
A: You should have both alternators tested to see if either one is OK. Some auto parts stores will bench test alternators off the car for free. If either alternator is OK, the problem is with the wiring to the alternator or the powertrain control module (PCM). The PCM controls the output of the alternator, but before replacing the PCM you should check the condition of all the wiring to the alternator, including all connection points. You should also check the fuse (20-amp fuse “T” in the power distribution center) and the fusible link.
Q: I’m trying to keep my daughter’s 1990 Ford Escort going. The electric cooling fan won’t come on unless I place a jumper wire from the battery positive terminal to the cooling fan’s brown/yellow wire. What could be wrong? – Alex, Des Plaines
A: Aside from possible wiring issues, the cooling fan temperature switch or cooling fan relay (if equipped with air conditioning) could be bad. If equipped with AC try swapping the relay (mounted near the backside of the driver’s side headlamp). Otherwise, the switch is suspect. The switch is screwed into the coolant port near the distributor.
Questions for Ira Siegel? Call the Auto Advisor Hotline at (708) 633-6839 or e-mail autoadvisor.irasiegel@gmail.com. Siegel is an automotive instructor and an automotive service excellence-certified master auto technician.
You Might Like
From ToDrive.com
- Paralyzed driver hits the Road to Indy
- Hybrids are good for passengers, bad for pedestrians
- Buick LaCrosse offers charm, improved fuel efficiency
- Sporty 2012 Lexus IS 350 offers all-wheel grip
- Click & Clack: Tractor carburetor may need replacing
- Dodge Dart: offspring of a happy union
- B-spec kit puts Kia on the track
- Chevy’s subcompact Sonic is poised for success






Comments Click here to view or make a comment